Complete Guide to Misode Tenmangu Shrine (Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture) | History, Access, and Highlights Explained in Detail
Misode Tenmangu Shrine, nestled in the hilly town of Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, is a historic shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane, the god of learning. Known as a filming location for the movie “Tenkosei” (Transfer Student), its 55 stone steps continue to fascinate many movie fans and tourists. This article provides detailed information you should know before visiting, from the history of Misode Tenmangu Shrine to its highlights, access methods, and surrounding tourist information.
What is Misode Tenmangu Shrine? | An Overview of Onomichi’s Representative Tenmangu Shrine
Misode Tenmangu Shrine is a Tenmangu shrine located in Nagae 1-chome, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture. Its former shrine rank was Gosha (village shrine), and it enshrines Sugawara no Michizane as its main deity. This shrine, which blends seamlessly into the landscape of Onomichi’s hilly town, is affectionately known as “Tenjin-san” by the locals. The 55 stone steps leading to the temple grounds are a symbolic feature of Onomichi, and its elevated location offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Onomichi Strait and the city. It is believed to offer a variety of blessings, including academic success, passing exams, finding love, and protection from evil, attracting many visitors throughout the year. ### Basic Information
Location: 1-11-16 Nagae, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture 722-0046
Phone Number: 0848-37-1889
Visiting Hours: Grounds are freely accessible (Shrine office is generally open from 9:00 to 17:00)
Admission Fee: Free
Parking: No dedicated parking (Please use nearby paid parking)
Official Website: http://misodetenmangu.or.jp/
History of Misode Tenmangu Shrine | Sugawara no Michizane and the Origin of “Misode”
The founding of Misode Tenmangu Shrine is associated with a moving anecdote about Sugawara no Michizane.
Sugawara no Michizane’s Encounter with Onomichi
In 901, Sugawara no Michizane, who was to be exiled to Dazaifu due to slander by Fujiwara no Tokihira, stopped in Onomichi on his way west from Kyoto by ship. At that time, Onomichi was a thriving port town on the Seto Inland Sea. When Michizane disembarked and rested, the locals warmly offered him barley rice and sweet sake.
The Birth of the “Sleeve” Legend
Deeply grateful for this warm hospitality, Michizane is said to have torn one sleeve of his kimono, painted his own image on it, and given it to the people. This sleeve is called “Omisode no Mikage” (御袖の御影). After the death of Sugawara no Michizane (Engi 3, 903 AD), a shrine was built within the grounds of Tenjinbo Temple during the Enkyu era (1069-1074 AD) to enshrine this sleeve as the sacred object. This is considered the founding of Omisode Tenmangu Shrine.
Origin of the Name “Omisode Tenmangu Shrine”
Because the “Omisode” (御袖), bestowed by Sugawara no Michizane, is enshrined as the sacred object, this shrine came to be called “Omisode Tenmangu Shrine.” Among the many Tenmangu shrines throughout Japan, this unique origin is extremely rare, illustrating the deep connection between Onomichi and Sugawara no Michizane.
Development After the Edo Period
During the Edo period, as Onomichi prospered as a port of call for Kitamae ships, Omisode Tenmangu Shrine also gained widespread worship as the god of learning. Under the Meiji era’s shrine ranking system, it was ranked as a Gosha (village shrine), positioning it as an important shrine in the region. The current shrine building was constructed in the early Showa period, and as a shrine that has walked hand in hand with the history of Onomichi, it has been carefully preserved to this day.
Highlights of Misode Tenmangu Shrine | A Thorough Introduction to the Charms of the Shrine Grounds
Misode Tenmangu Shrine has not only historical value, but also various attractions that captivate visitors.
The 55 Stone Steps Famous from the Movie “The Transfer Student”
An essential part of discussing Misode Tenmangu Shrine is the 55 stone steps leading to the shrine grounds. These steps were used as the filming location for the memorable scene in Nobuhiko Obayashi’s movie “The Transfer Student” (released in 1982) where the two main characters tumble down and their bodies are swapped.
The steps are steep, and looking up from below is quite impressive. It has become a sacred place for movie fans and tourists visiting filming locations, and many people enjoy taking commemorative photos on these steps. However, actually tumbling down is extremely dangerous, so please absolutely avoid recreating the movie scene.
Climbing the stone steps reveals a magnificent view overlooking the Onomichi Channel and the city. The scenery is particularly beautiful at sunset, making it a recommended spot for photography.
The Impressive Red-Roofed Shrine
The shrine, located at the top of the stone steps, is a beautiful building characterized by its red roof. The view of the main hall from the front evokes the unique atmosphere of Onomichi. Guardian lion-dogs sit in front of the shrine, quietly watching over worshippers.
At the main hall, you can pray for various wishes, including academic success, passing exams, finding love, protection from evil, and family safety. Especially during exam season, many students and their parents visit, praying for their success.
The Sacred Tree and Owl Visits
There is a magnificent sacred tree on the shrine grounds, and it is known that owls visit this tree every spring. Owls are considered auspicious birds, as their namesakes sound like “no hardship” and “bringing good fortune,” and if you’re lucky, you might spot one.
It’s said that those who spot an owl will be blessed with good fortune, so be sure to pay attention to the sacred tree during your spring visit.
Sleeve-shaped “Sleeve Fragrance Amulet”
A unique item offered at Misode Tenmangu Shrine is the “Sleeve Fragrance Amulet,” shaped like one of the sleeves of the enshrined deity, Sugawara no Michizane. This amulet is believed to bring good fortune in all kinds of relationships and is popular among visitors seeking good fortune in love and relationships.
Other amulets are also available, including those for academic success and ema (votive tablets) for passing exams.
Goshuin (Shrine Seal) Information
You can receive a goshuin at Misode Tenmangu Shrine. If you visit during the shrine office’s opening hours (generally 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM), they will carefully write it for you. The Goshuin (temple/shrine stamp) bears the calligraphy and red seal of “Misode Tenmangu Shrine,” and is received by many visitors as a memento of their visit.
Furthermore, Misode Tenmangu Shrine is designated as the 19th stop on the “Twenty-Five Sacred Sites of Sugawara no Michizane,” and is known as one of the pilgrimage sites associated with Sugawara no Michizane.
A Holy Site from the Anime “Kamichu!”
Besides the movie “Transfer Student,” Misode Tenmangu Shrine also appears in the anime “Kamichu!”, making it a popular pilgrimage spot for anime fans. Many works are set in Onomichi, and Misode Tenmangu Shrine is one of the important locations in them.
Access to Misode Tenmangu Shrine | Directions from Onomichi Station
Misode Tenmangu Shrine is located in the city center of Onomichi, in the area known as the “Saka no Machi” (Slope Town). There are three main ways to access it: on foot, by bus, or by car.
Access by Train and Bus
Walking from JR Onomichi Station
It’s about a 20-minute walk from JR Sanyo Main Line “Onomichi Station”. You can enjoy the scenery of Onomichi as you walk, passing through shopping streets and old-style cafes along the way. Since there are many hills, we recommend wearing comfortable shoes.
Using the Bus
Take the Onomichi Bus from in front of JR Onomichi Station and get off at the “Nagaeguchi” bus stop. From there, it’s about a 10-minute walk. Using the bus will allow you to avoid some of the hills.
Access by Car and Parking Information
Access by Car
It’s about a 15-minute drive from the Sanyo Expressway “Onomichi IC” or about a 20-minute drive from the “Fukuyama-Nishi IC”.
Parking Information
There is no dedicated parking lot at Misode Tenmangu Shrine. If you are visiting by car, we recommend using a paid parking lot around Onomichi Station or in the city center, and then walking or taking the bus from there. Onomichi has many narrow alleys, and some areas are difficult for large vehicles to access, so caution is advised.
Points to Note When Accessing
- There are 55 stone steps, and the slope is steep, so those with mobility issues should be careful.
- The stone steps become slippery in rainy weather, so please be especially careful.
- The hilly area of Onomichi has narrow streets and it’s easy to get lost, so it’s recommended to check a map app beforehand.
Benefits of Misode Tenmangu Shrine | Diverse Divine Blessings Beyond Academic Success
Misode Tenmangu Shrine enshrines Sugawara no Michizane as its main deity, and is believed to offer a variety of blessings.
Academic Success and Prayer for Passing Exams
Sugawara no Michizane is worshipped nationwide as the god of learning, and Misode Tenmangu Shrine is known for its blessings related to academic success and prayers for passing exams. During exam season, many students and their parents visit to pray for their success in getting into their desired schools. Many ema (votive tablets) for passing exams are dedicated on the shrine grounds.
Matchmaking and Romantic Fulfillment
As symbolized by the “Sleeve Fragrance Charm,” Misode Tenmangu Shrine is believed to bring blessings for all kinds of relationships. It’s a popular power spot for worshippers seeking good relationships and couples hoping for romantic success.
Protection from Misfortune and Family Safety
Sugawara no Michizane is also worshipped as a god who wards off disasters, and the shrine offers blessings for protection from misfortune and family safety. Many people visit, especially those in their unlucky years or those praying for the safety of their families.
Traffic Safety and Good Fortune in Competitions
In addition, the shrine is believed to offer various blessings, including traffic safety and good fortune in competitions, attracting the faith of local people.
Recommended Tourist Spots Around Misode Tenmangu Shrine
After visiting Misode Tenmangu Shrine, be sure to explore the surrounding tourist spots. Onomichi is known as a “town of slopes,” a “town of literature,” and a “town of movies,” offering plenty to see.
Senkoji Temple and Senkoji Park
Senkoji Temple, within walking distance of Misode Tenmangu Shrine, is a representative tourist attraction of Onomichi. Located on the slopes of Mt. Senkoji, it offers breathtaking views overlooking the Onomichi Channel. Senkoji Park is also famous for its cherry blossoms, attracting many visitors in spring. The Senkoji Mountain Ropeway provides a scenic aerial walk to the summit.
Onomichi Hon-dori Shopping Street
This arcade shopping street, stretching approximately 1.2 km, exudes a retro atmosphere typical of Onomichi. It’s lined with long-established Japanese confectionery shops, general stores, and cafes, making it enjoyable just to stroll along.
Cat’s Alley
Located on the way from Misode Tenmangu Shrine to Senkoji Temple, “Cat’s Alley” is a popular spot dotted with cat-themed art installations. Many cats actually live there, making it a must-visit for cat lovers.
Literary Path
This walking path, built on the slopes of Mt. Senkoji, features stone monuments inscribed with poems and excerpts from novels by writers associated with Onomichi. Many literary giants, including Fumiko Hayashi and Naoya Shiga, visited Onomichi and used it as the setting for their works.
Ship Cruise & Shimanami Kaido
Onomichi is also the starting point on the Honshu side of the Shimanami Kaido. If you have time, visiting islands such as Mukaijima and Innoshima, or enjoying cycling, is highly recommended.
Recommended Gourmet Around Misode Tenmangu Shrine
Onomichi is a treasure trove of gourmet food, including seafood from the Seto Inland Sea and Onomichi ramen.
Onomichi Ramen
Onomichi ramen is a must-try when visiting Onomichi. It’s characterized by its soy sauce-based soup topped with pork back fat, and there are many famous restaurants in the city. “Shukaen” and “Tsutafuji” are well-known establishments.
Onomichi Sakura Chaya
This restaurant offers local Onomichi cuisine and dishes using seafood from the Seto Inland Sea. Popular with both tourists and locals, it’s a great place to savor the flavors of Onomichi.
Traditional Japanese House Cafes
Onomichi boasts numerous stylish cafes housed in renovated traditional Japanese houses. Places like “Sabou Komon” and “Akubi Cafe” offer a relaxing atmosphere amidst the charm of this hillside town.
HOK STAND
A popular local cafe offering coffee and light meals. Perfect for a break during sightseeing.
Letterpress Campanella
A unique spot combining a letterpress printing workshop and cafe. You can create original printed materials, making them ideal souvenirs.
Hotels and Accommodations near Misode Tenmangu Shrine
For the best Onomichi sightseeing experience, staying in the city is recommended.
Miharashi-tei
Located on the slopes of Senkoji Mountain, this inn boasts breathtaking views of the Onomichi Strait. It also features a hot spring, perfect for unwinding after a long day of travel.
Ryotei Koyado Onomichi Hansei
This is a luxury ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) where you can experience the charm of Onomichi. It is renowned for its cuisine using seasonal ingredients from the Seto Inland Sea, offering a special stay.
Business Hotels
There are many reasonably priced business hotels around Onomichi Station, such as “Green Hill Hotel Onomichi” and “Onomichi Daiichi Hotel.” It’s a convenient base for sightseeing.
Guesthouses
In recent years, the number of guesthouses renovated from old houses has increased, and unique accommodations such as “Anago no Nedoko” and “Miharashi-so” are gaining popularity.
Annual Events and Festivals at Misode Tenmangu Shrine
Misode Tenmangu Shrine holds various festivals and events throughout the year.
Hatsumode (January 1st-3rd)
Many worshippers visit for Hatsumode to pray for happiness in the new year. Many students praying for success in exams can also be seen.
Tenjin Festival (Around February 25th each year)
This is an annual festival held to coincide with the anniversary of the death of Sugawara no Michizane. Prayers for academic success and passing exams are offered, and the festival is bustling with locals and students preparing for exams.
Plum Blossom Season (February-March)
Plum blossoms are synonymous with Tenmangu shrines. Plum trees are planted on the shrine grounds, and you can enjoy the beautiful blossoms in early spring.
Autumn Grand Festival (October)
This festival expresses gratitude for the autumn harvest and prays for the prosperity of the region. Many locals attend.
Manners and Precautions for Visiting Misode Tenmangu Shrine
When visiting a shrine, it is important to observe basic manners.
Proper Etiquette for Visiting a Shrine
- Bow before passing through the torii gate.
- Cleanse your hands and mouth at the purification fountain.
- Place your offering in front of the main hall, bow twice, clap twice, and bow once.
- Bow again at the torii gate when leaving.
Photography
Photography is generally permitted on the shrine grounds, but please be considerate of other visitors. Photography inside the shrine buildings and of the sacred object may be prohibited.
Precautions on the Stone Steps
The 55 stone steps are steep, so please be very careful when going up and down. They are especially slippery in rainy weather and winter. Absolutely avoid trying to recreate a movie scene by tumbling down.
Attire
Please dress appropriately for visiting a shrine. However, as it is also a tourist spot, there is no need to be overly formal. Comfortable walking shoes are essential.
Summary | Experiencing Onomichi’s History and Culture at Misode Tenmangu Shrine
Misode Tenmangu Shrine is a historic shrine with deep ties to Sugawara no Michizane, and is also a beloved pilgrimage site for many who have seen it in movies and anime. After climbing the 55 stone steps, you’ll find blessings for academic success and finding love, along with beautiful views of Onomichi.
When visiting Onomichi, be sure to visit Misode Tenmangu Shrine and experience its history and charm. Combining it with nearby tourist spots and local cuisine will make for a fulfilling trip to Onomichi. Whether you’re a student praying for success in exams, a couple seeking love, or a movie fan on a pilgrimage, Misode Tenmangu Shrine is a place for everyone to visit.
Nestled in the hilly town of Onomichi, Misode Tenmangu Shrine is a charming shrine that will leave a special memory for all who visit.
