Zuishun-in Temple, a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple (Kyoto Prefecture): The History and Highlights of the Zen Temple that served as the setting for Tsutomu Mizukami’s “The Temple of the Wild Geese”
Nearby within the grounds of Shokokuji Temple, the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, located north of the Kyoto Imperial Palace and facing Imadegawa Street, lies a quietly situated sub-temple: Zuishun-in. Known as the place where author Tsutomu Mizukami trained in his youth and as the model for the setting of his Naoki Prize-winning novel “The Temple of the Wild Geese,” this Zen temple boasts a deep history dating back to the Muromachi period, a beautiful garden, and a treasure trove of cultural assets, including valuable sliding screen paintings.
This article will comprehensively introduce the charms of Zuishun-in Temple, a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple, covering its history from its founding to the present day, its highlights, its connection to Tsutomu Mizukami, and visiting information.
History of Zuishun-in: From the Merger of Uncho-in and Zuishunken to the Present
Founding in the Muromachi Period: The Establishment of Uncho-in
The origins of Zuishun-in date back to the early Muromachi period. Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi shogunate, founded Shokoku-ji Temple in 1392. At that time, he invited Taisei Soi, a Dharma successor of Zen Master Sesson Yubai, to become the fourth abbot of Shokoku-ji Temple, and established Uncho-in as his Zen meditation hall.
Taisei Soi was a highly respected monk who greatly contributed to the development of Shokoku-ji Temple, and Uncho-in functioned as an important training ground within the temple grounds. Under the strong patronage of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, Uncho-in established a firm position as a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji Temple.
The Founding of Zuishunken and the Inryoken Diary
Meanwhile, during the Bunmei era (1469-1487), Zuishunken was founded by Kisen Shūshō. Kisen Shūshō held the important position of Sōrokushi (Chief Administrator of Buddhist Monks), a crucial role in the Muromachi Shogunate overseeing Zen Buddhist temples.
The Sōrokushi held the power to appoint and dismiss abbots of the Five Mountains and Ten Temples, wielding immense authority within the Zen Buddhist world. Kisen Shūshō is also known as a scholar-monk who contributed to the compilation of the “Inryoken Diary.” The Inryoken Diary is an extremely important historical document for understanding the politics, culture, and society of the Muromachi period, and its historical value as a diary recorded by the Sōrokushi is highly regarded.
It is believed that Zuishunken also played a role as a cultural and academic center.
Damage from War and Merger
From the Muromachi period to the Sengoku period, Kyoto was repeatedly struck by war, including the Ōnin War (1467-1477). Shōkoku-ji Temple was no exception, and many of its buildings were destroyed by fire.
Unchō-in Temple also suffered damage during this period of war, and subsequently merged with Zuishun-ken Temple. This merger unified the history and traditions of the two sub-temples, forming the foundation of the present-day Zuishun-in Temple.
Edo Period: The Great Tenmei Fire and Destruction
In the Edo period, Zuishun-in Temple continued to exist as a sub-temple of Shōkoku-ji Temple, but its buildings were again destroyed by the Great Tenmei Fire that occurred in 1788.
The Great Tenmei Fire was one of the largest fires in Kyoto’s history, destroying most of the city, including the Imperial Palace. The temple buildings of Shōkoku-ji Temple suffered extensive damage, and Zuishun-in Temple was no exception. This great fire is believed to have resulted in the loss of many of the buildings and temple treasures that had been passed down for over 300 years.
Reconstruction in the Late Edo Period and Completion in the Meiji Era
Approximately 60 years after the Great Tenmei Fire, Zuishun-in was rebuilt during the Koka and Kaei periods (1845-1849). This period coincided with the end of the Edo period, a turbulent time when the authority of the shogunate was beginning to waver, but efforts to restore it as a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji continued.
However, even after the reconstruction, financial difficulties may have forced the temple to abandon its guest hall at one point. Later, in June 1898 (Meiji 31), the reconstruction was completed, and the current form of Zuishun-in was established.
Since this Meiji-era reconstruction, Zuishun-in has continued to function as a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji and as a Zen training hall.
The Rinzai School of Buddhism and Shokokuji Temple
Understanding Zuishun-in requires knowledge of its head temple, Shokokuji Temple, and the Rinzai School of Buddhism.
The Founding of Shokokuji Temple and the Kyoto Five Mountains
Shokokuji Temple (Shokokuji), formally known as “Mannenzan Shokoku Joten Zenji,” was founded in 1392 by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. Its founding abbot was Shun’oku Myoha, a senior disciple of Muso Kokushi, who inherited the teachings of Muso Soseki.
Shokokuji Temple is a prestigious Zen temple ranked second among the Kyoto Five Mountains, and had deep ties to the Ashikaga shogunate, the Fushimi-no-miya family, and the Katsura-no-miya family, among other imperial and noble families. At its peak, it boasted over 60 sub-temples and a vast temple grounds.
The Lineage of Gozan Literature and Painter-Monks
Shokokuji Temple is also known as the center of Gozan Literature. Gozan Literature refers to the literary activities centered on Chinese poetry and prose that developed in Zen Buddhist temples from the Kamakura period to the Muromachi period. Many scholar-monks gathered at Shokokuji Temple, devoting themselves to the study of poetry, prose, and scholarship.
Furthermore, Shokokuji Temple holds an important position in the lineage of painter-monks. Shūbun, a painter-monk of the Muromachi period, and Sesshū, who later became a master of ink painting, trained at Shokokuji Temple and honed their painting skills. Shokokuji Temple was not only a place of Zen training but also a center for the dissemination of arts and culture.
Sub-temples Outside the Main Temple: Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji
As sub-temples outside the main temple of Shokokuji Temple, there are Rokuon-ji (Kinkaku-ji) and Jishō-ji (Ginkaku-ji), two of Kyoto’s most representative tourist attractions.
Rokuon-ji Temple originated from Kitayama-dono, built by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and after Yoshimitsu’s death, it became a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji Temple. Its golden reliquary hall (Kinkaku-den) is world-famous as an architectural symbol of Muromachi culture.
Jisho-ji Temple originated from Higashiyama-dono, built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, and after Yoshimasa’s death, it became a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji Temple. Its Kannon-den (Ginkaku-den), also known as Ginkaku-ji, and its beautiful gardens convey the essence of Higashiyama culture to this day.
Thus, Shokoku-ji Temple is an extremely important temple in the history of Japanese Buddhism, possessing two World Heritage Sites, Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji, as its sub-temples outside the main temple grounds.
Rinzai Zen Shokoku-ji Branch Temple Network
The Rinzai Zen Shokoku-ji branch is a sect with Shokoku-ji Temple as its head temple, and has branch temples throughout Japan, mainly in Kyoto Prefecture, but also in Osaka, Hyogo, Fukui, Mie, Shimane, Kochi, Kagoshima, Hokkaido, and other prefectures.
Temples of the Shokokuji school of Buddhism not only preserve and transmit the teachings of Zen Buddhism but also play an important role as bearers of local culture and history. Zuishun-in Temple is one such temple, continuing the traditions of the Shokokuji school to this day.
Zuishun-in Temple Grounds and Highlights
While Zuishun-in Temple is usually closed to the public, it is open during special viewings in spring and autumn, allowing visitors to admire its beautiful gardens and valuable sliding screen paintings.
Principal Image: Amida Triad
The principal image of Zuishun-in Temple is the Amida Triad (Amida Buddha descending on clouds). It is a triad in the form of Amida Buddha at the center, flanked by Kannon Bodhisattva and Seishi Bodhisattva, depicting Amida Buddha descending on clouds to welcome the deceased.
It is interesting that a Zen Buddhist temple has Amida Buddha as its principal image, but this can be seen as an example of the history of the fusion of Japanese Buddhism across sectarian boundaries.
Abbot’s Quarters and Fusuma Paintings: Peacock Paintings by Imaō Keinen
The abbot’s quarters of Zuishun-in Temple feature peacock fusuma paintings by Imaō Keinen, a Japanese painter from the Meiji era. Imaō Keinen was a painter in the Maruyama school tradition and specialized in flower and bird paintings.
The peacock paintings adorning the fusuma of the abbot’s quarters are elegant and richly colored works, demonstrating Keinen’s high level of artistic skill. Peacocks are considered symbols of warding off evil spirits in Buddhism, bringing splendor and spirituality to the Zen temple space.
Jōkan no Ma (Goose Room): Goose Paintings by Ueda Banshū
The Jōkan no Ma is also known as the Goose Room, and it contains eight goose fusuma paintings by Ueda Banshū. Ueda Banshu was a Japanese painter who was active from the Meiji to Taisho periods, and he inherited the style of the Shijo school.
The fusuma paintings of geese delicately depict flocks of geese flying in the sky and geese landing by the water’s edge, conveying the changing seasons and the beauty of nature. It is thought that the existence of this “Goose Room” may have influenced the imagery of Tsutomu Mizukami’s later novel, “The Temple of the Geese.”
South Garden “Uncho-tei”: A Dry Landscape Garden from the Muromachi Period
The south garden of Zuishun-in Temple is called “Uncho-tei” and preserves the style of a Zen-style dry landscape garden from the Muromachi period.
A dry landscape garden is a style of Japanese garden that expresses mountain and water scenery using stones, sand, and moss without using water. In Uncho-tei, stone arrangements are placed amid a bed of white sand, creating a space that visualizes the spiritual world of Zen.
The garden’s name, “Uncho,” is thought to originate from Unchoin, the predecessor of Zuishun-in, and it is a valuable cultural heritage that conveys the history since its founding.
North Garden “Unsen-tei”: A pond-centered strolling garden incorporating the style of Muso Kokushi
The north garden is a pond-centered strolling garden named “Unsen-tei.” This garden is said to have been created incorporating the style of Muso Kokushi (Muso Soseki), the founder of Shokoku-ji Temple.
Muso Soseki (1275-1351) was a Zen monk who was active from the Kamakura period to the Nanboku-cho period, and is one of the most important landscape architects in the history of Japanese gardens. He designed many famous gardens, including those at Saiho-ji Temple (Moss Temple) and Tenryu-ji Temple in Kyoto.
Unsen-tei is centered around a pond, and its layout allows visitors to enjoy various landscapes while strolling around it. The pond is filled with clear water, and the stone arrangements and plantings are skillfully placed. It is characterized by a harmony with nature, reminiscent of the style of Musō Kokushi, and a spatial composition that evokes the spirituality of Zen.
The Study and Imyō Shūkei’s Portrait of Zen Master Fenggan
Inside the study, there is a painting of Zen Master Fenggan by Imyō Shūkei, the 115th abbot of Shōkoku-ji Temple.
Zen Master Fenggan was a legendary Zen monk of the Tang Dynasty in China, known as one of the “Three Sages” along with Hanshan and Shide. He is often depicted accompanied by a tiger and is considered a symbol of the free and unrestrained spirit of Zen.
Imyō Shūkei’s portrait of Zen Master Fenggan is a valuable work that demonstrates the Zen tradition and spirituality at Zuishun-in Temple.
The Sound of the Suikinkutsu
The garden of Zuishun-in Temple features a suikinkutsu (water harp cave). A suikinkutsu is a Japanese garden device where water droplets are dropped into a buried earthenware pot, and the resulting reverberation is enjoyed.
Listening carefully in the tranquil Zen temple garden, one can hear the clear sound emanating from the suikinkutsu. This sound is sometimes called “heavenly music,” soothing the hearts of visitors and leading them into a meditative state.
Tsutomu Mizukami and “The Temple of the Wild Geese”: A Training Experience at Zuishun-in Temple
An essential aspect of discussing Zuishun-in Temple is its deep connection to the writer Tsutomu Mizukami (1919-2004).
Tsutomu Mizukami’s Childhood
Tsutomu Mizukami was born in 1919 (Taisho 8) into a poor farming family in Wakasa Province (present-day Oi-cho, Oi-gun, Fukui Prefecture). At the age of nine, he was entrusted to Zuishun-in, a sub-temple of Shokoku-ji in Kyoto, as a young monk (a child monk), and devoted himself to Zen training until he was thirteen.
Life at Zuishun-in at that time was extremely rigorous. From early morning, he was subjected to chanting, manual labor (cleaning and other work), and Zen meditation, making for a harsh daily life for a young boy. However, this experience became the origin of Mizukami Tsutomu’s later literature.
Naoki Prize-winning work “The Temple of the Wild Geese”
In 1962, Mizukami Tsutomu won the 47th Naoki Prize for his novel “The Temple of the Wild Geese.” This work depicts a tragic story of a young monk training at a fictional Zen temple in Kinugasa, Kyoto, and the women who frequent the temple.
It is believed that Zuishun-in, where Mizukami Tsutomu himself trained, served as the model for “The Temple of the Wild Geese.” The work vividly depicts the daily life of a Zen temple, rigorous training, and human desires and conflicts, leaving a powerful impression on readers.
Due to the success of this work, Zuishun-in became widely known as the “Temple of the Wild Geese,” and is considered a sacred site among literary enthusiasts.
Zen Temple Associated with Literary Figures
Besides Mizukami Tsutomu, Zuishun-in is a temple associated with many literary figures, including the Meiji-era Japanese painter Suzuki Shōnen.
Suzuki Shōnen was a painter of the Maruyama school and specialized in flower-and-bird paintings. While the details of his connection with Zuishun-in are unclear, it can be inferred that the tranquil environment of the Zen temple served as a creative space for artists.
From Kameizumi Shūshō, an authority in the monastic registry, to the modern Mizukami Tsutomu, Zuishun-in has played an important role across generations as a center of scholarship, culture, and art.
Visiting Information and Access
Location and Basic Information
- Official Name: Zuishun-in, a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple
- Location: Shokokuji-monzen-cho, Imadegawa-dori Karasuma Higashi-iru, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
- Sect: Rinzai Zen Shokokuji School
- Principal Image: Amida Triad (Amida Buddha Raigo Statue)
- Founded: Muromachi period (as Uncho-in)
About Visiting
Zuishun-in is normally a closed temple. However, it may be open to the public during the Shokokuji Special Visit held in spring and autumn.
For information on the dates and fees of the special visit, we recommend checking the Shokokuji Temple official website or the Kyoto Prefecture Tourism Federation’s information in advance. The special visit offers a valuable opportunity to view the fusuma paintings in the abbot’s quarters and both gardens up close.
Access Information
Public Transportation
- Subway: Get off at Imadegawa Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Karasuma Line, approximately 5 minutes on foot.
- City Bus: Get off at the Karasuma Imadegawa bus stop on the Kyoto City Bus, approximately 5 minutes on foot.
The nearest station is Imadegawa Station on the Karasuma Subway Line, but it is also within walking distance from Kuramaguchi Station.
Car
Shokokuji Temple has its own parking lot, but the number of spaces is limited, so using public transportation is recommended during periods when congestion is expected, such as special viewing times.
Nearby Attractions
When visiting Zuishun-in, we recommend also visiting other facilities within Shokokuji Temple and nearby tourist spots.
Main Buildings of Shokokuji Temple
- Hatto (Dharma Hall): The oldest existing Hatto building in Japan (rebuilt in 1605), with a painting of a coiled dragon by Kano Mitsunobu on the ceiling. Known as the “Crying Dragon,” clapping your hands inside the hall produces an echo resembling the roar of a dragon.
- Hojo: A building designated as an Important Cultural Property, featuring beautiful sliding screen paintings and a garden.
- Bathroom (Senmei): An Important Cultural Property, a valuable surviving example of a Zen Buddhist temple’s bathhouse architecture.
Kyoto Gyoen
To the south of Shokokuji Temple lies the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. This vast site includes the Kyoto Imperial Palace and the Sento Imperial Palace, offering opportunities for strolling and enjoying the changing seasons.
Doshisha University
To the east of Shokokuji Temple is the Doshisha University Imadegawa Campus, where a group of red brick buildings, designated as Important Cultural Properties, create a beautiful landscape.
Significance of Visiting Zuishun-in: A Place Where Zen and Literature Intersect
Zuishun-in, a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple, is a temple with multifaceted appeal, boasting a history dating back to the Muromachi period, a beautiful garden, valuable sliding screen paintings, and deep connections to the literature of Tsutomu Mizukami. The space, where the rigor of a Zen training monastery coexists with the richness of a center for cultural and artistic expression, offers visitors a profound spiritual experience. During special viewing opportunities, be sure to visit this tranquil Zen temple and feel the weight of its history, which dates back to the Muromachi period, and the spirit of the space where Tsutomu Mizukami spent his boyhood.
As a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple, the second-ranked of Kyoto’s Five Great Zen Temples, and known as the “Temple of the Wild Geese,” Zuishun-in is an indispensable presence when discussing Kyoto’s history and culture.
Summary
Zuishun-in, a sub-temple of Shokokuji Temple, has a history spanning approximately 600 years, beginning with the founding of Uncho-in by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, merging with Zuishun-ken of Kameizumi Shusho, and undergoing destruction and reconstruction in the Great Fire of Tenmei.
The temple boasts numerous attractions, including the Muromachi-period dry landscape garden “Uncho-tei,” the pond garden “Unsen-tei” incorporating the style of Muso Kokushi, and precious fusuma paintings such as the peacock painting by Imao Keinen and the goose painting by Ueda Banshu.
Above all, it holds significant literary history as the temple where author Mizukami Tsutomu trained in his youth and which served as the model for the setting of his Naoki Prize-winning novel “The Temple of the Wild Geese.”
While normally closed to the public, this Zen temple is open to visitors during special viewings, making it a hidden gem worth visiting when in Kyoto. Why not experience the spirit of Zen and the depth of Japanese culture at Zuishun-in, which continues to uphold the traditions of the Rinzai sect’s Shokoku-ji branch?
