Saimyoji Temple Complete Guide | History, Highlights, and Access Information
Saimyoji Temple is a historic temple known for its connection to Hojo Tokiyori, the regent of the Kamakura period. This article provides a detailed explanation of everything you need to know before visiting, from the historical background of Saimyoji Temple to its highlights and visiting information.
About Saimyoji Temple
Saimyoji Temple is a Rinzai Zen temple of the Meigetsuin school located in Kamakura City, Kanagawa Prefecture. Its official name is “Fukugenzan Saimyoji,” and it is known as a temple founded by Hojo Tokiyori, the 5th regent of the Kamakura Shogunate.
Basic Information about Saimyoji Temple
- Official Name: Fukugenzan Saimyoji
- Sect: Rinzai Zen Meigetsuin School
- Principal Image: Shakyamuni Buddha
- Founder: Hojo Tokiyori
- Established: Mid-Kamakura period (around 1256)
- Location: Yamanouchi, Kamakura City, Kanagawa Prefecture
Saimyoji Temple derives its name from Hojo Tokiyori’s posthumous Buddhist name, “Saimyoji Nyudo,” and holds an important position as one of the Zen Buddhist temples deeply revered by powerful figures of the Kamakura Shogunate.
History of Saimyoji Temple
Founding Circumstances and Hojo Tokiyori
Saimyoji Temple was founded by Hojo Tokiyori (1227-1263), the 5th regent of the Kamakura Shogunate. Hojo Tokiyori is known as a figure who, as regent, held real power in the shogunate and implemented political reforms.
Tokiyori was a devout follower of Zen Buddhism and deeply studied Zen under Rankei Doryu, a high-ranking monk who came to Japan from Song China. In 1256 (Kogen 1), Tokiyori built Saimyoji Temple on the site of his former mountain villa and invited Rankei Doryu to be its founding abbot.
Saimyoji Temple in the Kamakura Period
At the time of its founding, Saimyoji Temple was a large temple with vast grounds. Under the patronage of the Hojo clan, it flourished as a center of Zen Buddhism where many monks trained.
After stepping down as regent in 1256, Tokiyori became a monk, taking the name “Saimyoji Nyudo,” and devoted himself to Zen training at this temple. Even after stepping down as regent, he retained considerable power, and Saimyoji Temple became a politically important location.
Anecdotes about Saimyōji Nyūdō Tokiyori
Hōjō Tokiyori, known as “Saimyōji Nyūdō,” left behind many anecdotes. The most famous is the legend of the “Hachinoki” (potted tree).
This story depicts an incident that occurred when Tokiyori stayed at the home of a poor samurai during his travels throughout the country. To warm Tokiyori, who was shivering from the cold, the samurai burned his cherished bonsai trees—a plum, pine, and cherry tree—as firewood. Later, it was revealed that Tokiyori was the regent, and the samurai’s loyalty was rewarded. This anecdote became the subject of Noh and Jōruri plays and is widely known.
Changes after the Muromachi Period
After the fall of the Kamakura Shogunate, Saimyōji Temple gradually declined. During the Muromachi period, an attempt was made to restore it by Kōhō Ken’ichi, a disciple of the Zen monk Musō Soseki, but it fell into ruin again amidst the chaos of the Sengoku period.
During the Edo period, Saimyoji Temple continued to exist as a sub-temple of Meigetsuin Temple. Meigetsuin was originally part of Saimyoji Temple, but after Saimyoji’s decline, Meigetsuin became the dominant entity, with Saimyoji Temple being incorporated as a part of it.
Modern Saimyoji Temple
Currently, there is no independent temple called “Saimyoji,” and its religious traditions are carried on at Meigetsuin Temple. Meigetsuin Temple is known as the “Hydrangea Temple” and is a famous temple in Kamakura, attracting many tourists.
Within the grounds of Meigetsuin Temple, historical sites and buildings that convey the former appearance of Saimyoji Temple remain, and the tomb of Hojo Tokiyori still exists within Meigetsuin Temple.
Highlights of Meigetsuin Temple, Associated with Saimyoji Temple
Meigetsuin Temple, which inherits the history of Saimyoji Temple, has many points of interest.
Main Hall and the Circular Window “Window of Enlightenment”
Meigetsu-in Temple’s main hall features the famous circular window, “Window of Enlightenment.” From this window, one can enjoy a view of the beautiful garden, which changes with the seasons, creating a landscape like a painting.
The circular window is a design unique to Zen Buddhist temples, and the circle is said to symbolize “enlightenment” and “truth.” The garden, which displays different expressions with each season—the fresh green of spring, the deep green of summer, the autumn leaves, and the snowscape of winter—deeply moves visitors.
Famous Hydrangea Spot
Meigetsu-in Temple is affectionately known as “Hydrangea Temple,” and approximately 2,500 hydrangea plants are planted on the temple grounds. The blue hydrangeas, known as “Meigetsu-in Blue,” are particularly famous, and the temple is bustling with visitors during their peak blooming season in June.
Many of the hydrangeas are the ancient Japanese variety “Hime-ajisai,” and their pure beauty is a representative scene of early summer in Kamakura. ### The Tomb of Hojo Tokiyori
Within the grounds of Meigetsu-in Temple lies the tomb (a Hōkyōintō pagoda) of Hojo Tokiyori, the temple’s founder. This tomb is designated a national historical site and is preserved as a valuable example of Kamakura period stone art.
The area surrounding the tomb is enveloped in a tranquil atmosphere, making it a place where one can reflect on Tokiyori’s character.
The Hojo Garden (Rear Garden of the Main Hall)
Behind the main hall lies the Hojo Garden, normally closed to the public. This garden is known for its irises and is specially opened only during the iris blooming season in June and the autumn foliage season.
Approximately 3,000 iris plants are planted in the garden, and the sight of the purple, white, and yellow flowers in full bloom is breathtaking.
Yagura (Horizontal Cave Tombs)
Within the grounds of Meigetsu-in Temple, there are horizontal cave tombs called “yagura,” unique to Kamakura. These were used as tombs for samurai and monks during the Kamakura period and are valuable historical remains that convey the funeral culture of that time.
Dry Landscape Garden
The temple grounds also feature a beautiful dry landscape garden. The simple garden, composed of white sand and stone arrangements, embodies the spirit of Zen and soothes the mind of those who behold it.
Founder’s Hall
The Founder’s Hall houses a statue of Rankei Dōryū, the temple’s founder. Rankei Dōryū was a high-ranking monk who came to Japan from Song China during the Kamakura period and is an important figure in the history of Japanese Zen Buddhism, also known as the founder of Kenchō-ji Temple.
Saimyōji Nyūdō and the Kamakura Shogunate
Hōjō Tokiyori’s Political Reforms
Hōjō Tokiyori, as regent, carried out many political reforms. Particularly famous is the establishment of the “Hikitsuke-shū” (Council of State). This was an institution specializing in litigation, aiming to expedite and ensure fairness in trials.
Furthermore, Tokiyori strengthened the Hojo clan’s power base by eliminating the powerful Miura clan in the Hoji War. At the same time, he implemented policies emphasizing frugality and austerity, discouraging extravagance.
Protection and Spread of Zen Buddhism
Tokiyori also played an important role as a protector of Zen Buddhism. He established Kencho-ji Temple and invited Rankei Doryu, positioning Zen Buddhism as a spiritual pillar of the shogunate.
The teachings of Zen Buddhism had a high affinity with the spirit of bushido (the way of the samurai), and were widely accepted among Kamakura samurai. Tokiyori’s policies protecting Zen Buddhism had a significant impact on the subsequent formation of samurai culture.
Legend of Travels Through the Provinces
In the anecdote known as the “Legend of Saimyoji Nyudo’s Travels Through the Provinces,” Tokiyori is said to have traveled throughout the provinces disguised as a monk, observing the conditions of the people. Many legends arose, including the aforementioned story of the “potted tree.”
While the veracity of these legends is uncertain, they indicate that Tokiyori was beloved by the people and remembered as an ideal ruler.
Saimyoji Temple and Zen Buddhism Culture
The Five Mountains of Kamakura and Saimyoji Temple
During the Kamakura period, Zen Buddhist temples were ranked as the “Five Mountains of Kamakura.” While Saimyoji Temple itself was not included in the Five Mountains, it contributed to the development of Kamakura Zen Buddhism culture as an important temple under the patronage of the Hojo clan.
The Five Mountains of Kamakura consisted of Kenchoji, Engakuji, Jufukuji, Jochiji, and Jomyoji temples, and Saimyoji Temple had close ties with these temples.
Acceptance of Song Dynasty Culture
Monks who came to Japan from Song Dynasty China stayed at Saimyoji Temple, bringing advanced Chinese culture. Diverse cultural elements, such as architectural styles, garden techniques, tea culture, and ink painting, were transmitted along with Zen Buddhism.
These cultural elements would later form the foundation of Muromachi culture, and even Japanese culture as a whole.
Zen Dialogues and Training
At Saimyoji Temple, rigorous Zen training was practiced. In addition to daily practices such as zazen (seated meditation), samu (work), and alms-begging, the path to enlightenment was pursued through Zen dialogues exchanged between master and disciple.
Hojo Tokiyori himself is said to have diligently trained under Rankei Doryu, and his attitude influenced many samurai.
How to Access Meigetsuin Temple
We will introduce detailed directions to Meigetsuin Temple, which carries on the legacy of Saimyoji Temple.
Access by Train
Walking from JR Yokosuka Line “Kita-Kamakura Station”
- Get off at Kita-Kamakura Station and walk for about 10 minutes.
- Exit the station and head left (towards Kamakura). Continue straight without crossing the railway crossing.
- Follow the signs and you will arrive at the entrance to Meigetsu-in Temple.
Kita-Kamakura Station is approximately 1 hour from Tokyo Station and approximately 25 minutes from Yokohama Station.
Access by Bus
If using the bus from Kamakura Station:
- Take the Enoden Bus bound for “Ofuna Station” or “Hongodai Station” from the Kamakura Station East Exit Bus Terminal.
- Get off at the “Meigetsu-in” bus stop and walk for about 3 minutes.
However, walking from Kita-Kamakura Station is more common and recommended as you can enjoy a stroll while appreciating the atmosphere of Kamakura.
Access by Car and Parking
By Private Car
- Approximately 20 minutes from the Asahina Interchange on the Yokohama-Yokosuka Expressway
Parking Information
- Meigetsuin Temple does not have its own parking lot.
- You will need to use nearby paid parking lots.
- During the hydrangea season (June), surrounding roads become extremely congested, so we strongly recommend using public transportation.
Visiting Hours and Admission Fees
Visiting Hours
- 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM (8:30 AM to 5:00 PM in June)
- Open all year round
Admission Fees
- Adults: 500 yen
- Elementary and Junior High School Students: 300 yen
- Rear Garden of the Main Hall (during special openings): 500 yen extra
Special Opening Periods
- Iris Season: Early to late June
- Autumn Leaves Season: Late November to early December
Points to Note When Visiting Saimyoji Temple/Meigetsuin Temple
Regarding Crowded Times
Meigetsu-in Temple is extremely popular as a “hydrangea temple,” and it gets very crowded, especially during the peak hydrangea season in June.
Peak Crowds
- Weekends from mid-to-late June
- Weekends during the autumn foliage season from late November to early December
Tips for Avoiding Crowds
- Consider visiting on weekdays
- Aim for right after opening (around 9:00 AM) or just before closing (after 3:30 PM)
- It’s relatively less crowded on rainy days (hydrangeas are beautiful even in the rain)
Regarding Photography
Photography is permitted at Meigetsu-in Temple, but please note the following:
- Tripods are prohibited.
- Please be considerate of other visitors.
- Photography may be prohibited inside the main hall; please follow the instructions of the staff.
- Commercial photography requires prior permission.
Clothing and Belongings
- There are stairs and slopes on the temple grounds, so comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
- In summer, bring a parasol, hat, and drinks.
- In rainy weather, in addition to an umbrella, shoes that can get wet are recommended.
- Shoes are removed inside the main hall, so footwear that is easy to take off and put on is convenient.
Tourist Spots Around Saimyoji Temple
When visiting Meigetsuin Temple, we recommend also visiting the surrounding temples and shrines.
Engakuji Temple
A large temple, the second-ranked of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kamakura, located very close to Kita-Kamakura Station. A famous Rinzai Zen temple founded by Hojo Tokimune, it possesses many cultural assets, including the national treasure, the Shariden (reliquary hall).
Kenchoji Temple
The first-ranked temple of the Five Great Zen Temples of Kamakura. This is Japan’s first Zen temple, founded by Hojo Tokiyori and with Rankei Doryu as its founding abbot. It has a deep connection to Saimyoji Temple and is an essential place to trace Tokiyori’s footsteps.
Tokeiji Temple
A nunnery known as a “divorce temple” and a “refuge temple.” It boasts beautiful flowers throughout the seasons, especially during the plum blossom season. It was founded by Kakuzan-ni, the wife of Hojo Tokimune.
Jochiji Temple
The fourth-ranked temple among the Five Great Zen Temples of Kamakura. A quiet temple retaining the atmosphere of the Kamakura period, it features a statue of Hotei (the god of happiness) on its grounds.
Chojuji Temple
Normally closed to the public, this hidden gem is open for a limited time in spring and autumn. Said to have been founded by Ashikaga Takauji, its tranquil atmosphere is its charm.
Cultural Influence of Saimyoji Temple
Saimyoji Temple in Literary Works
Saimyoji Nyudo Hojo Tokiyori appears in many literary works.
The Noh Play “Hachinoki”
“Hachinoki,” a famous Noh play, is based on the anecdote of Tokiyori’s travels throughout the country. This work has been widely loved as a story of loyalty and gratitude.
Joruri and Kabuki
The story of “Hachinoki” was also adapted into Joruri and Kabuki, and became popular among the common people of the Edo period.
Modern Literature
Many modern writers, including Natsume Soseki in “Mon,” have used temples in Kamakura as settings for their works, and Saimyoji/Meigetsuin is one of them.
Representation in Art
Meigetsuin’s circular windows and seasonal landscapes have been the subject of many painters’ and photographers’ works. In particular, the blue of the hydrangeas, known as “Meigetsuin Blue,” is recognized as a color symbolizing Japanese aesthetics.
Contribution to Zen Culture
Saimyoji made a significant contribution to the spread of Zen culture during the Kamakura period. Under Tokiyori’s patronage, many monks trained there, and Zen teachings permeated the samurai class.
This trend formed the foundation of uniquely Japanese “Ways” culture, such as the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, calligraphy, and garden art.
Saimyoji Temple and the Modern Era
Value as a Historical Heritage Site
The remains of Saimyoji Temple and Meigetsuin Temple, which conveys its history, are valuable cultural heritage sites that transmit the history of the Kamakura period to the present day. Hojo Tokiyori’s tomb is designated a national historic site and holds significant academic value.
Meigetsuin Temple as a Tourist Resource
Meigetsuin Temple is a representative tourist spot in Kamakura, attracting many visitors throughout the year. Especially during the hydrangea season, many people from both Japan and abroad visit, contributing to the local economy.
As a Place of Healing
In modern society, tranquil spaces like Meigetsuin Temple play an important role as places of healing for people’s hearts. The changing seasons viewed through the circular window, the flowers blooming in the temple grounds, and the quiet time spent in Zen meditation offer an opportunity to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and reflect on oneself.
A Hub for Cultural Inheritance
Meigetsuin Temple regularly holds religious events such as Zen meditation sessions and sutra copying sessions, continuing activities to transmit the spirit and culture of Zen to the modern age. These activities are of great significance from the perspective of preserving traditional culture.
To Learn More About Saimyoji Temple
Related Books
For those who wish to learn more about Saimyoji Temple and Hojo Tokiyori, the following books are recommended:
- History books and research books on the Kamakura period
- Biographies and critical biographies of the Hojo clan
- Guidebooks introducing temples in Kamakura
- Books on the history and philosophy of Zen Buddhism
Museums and Archives
Kamakura National Treasure Museum
A museum exhibiting cultural artifacts passed down through temples and shrines in Kamakura. Materials related to Saimyoji Temple and Meigetsuin Temple are sometimes exhibited.
Kamakura Historical and Cultural Exchange Center
A facility where you can comprehensively learn about the history of Kamakura. It features exhibits related to the Hojo clan and the Kamakura Shogunate.
Experience Programs
Meigetsuin Temple occasionally holds the following experience programs:
- Zen Meditation Session: A Zen meditation experience held in the early morning
- Sutra Copying Session: An experience of copying sutras such as the Heart Sutra
- Tea Ceremony: A tea ceremony experience in the tea room
For details, please check the official information of Meigetsuin Temple or the Kamakura City tourist information.
Summary: The Charm of Saimyoji Temple
Saimyoji Temple is a historical temple founded by Hojo Tokiyori, the regent of the Kamakura period. Currently, its legacy is carried on at Meigetsuin Temple, and it is loved by many people as the “Hydrangea Temple.”
Main Attractions of Saimyoji Temple and Meigetsuin Temple
- Historical Value: As a temple associated with Hojo Tokiyori, a powerful figure in the Kamakura Shogunate, it holds a significant place in Japanese history.
- Beauty of the Seasons: Enjoy the different natural beauty of each season, including hydrangeas, autumn leaves, and irises.
- Zen Spirituality: Spaces embodying Zen aesthetics, such as the circular window “Window of Enlightenment” and the dry landscape garden.
- Cultural Influence: It has served as a theme for Noh, Joruri, and Kabuki, profoundly influencing Japanese culture.
- Healing Space: The tranquil temple grounds function as a place to soothe the minds of modern people.
Understanding the history of Saimyoji Temple is crucial for understanding the politics, religion, and culture of the Kamakura period. Furthermore, visiting Meigetsuin Temple allows you to directly experience its historical heritage.
When visiting Kamakura, be sure to visit Meigetsuin Temple and reflect on the history of Saimyoji Temple and the spirituality of Hojo Tokiyori. The seasonal scenery viewed from the circular window will surely leave a deep impression on your heart.
Meigetsuin Temple, also known as Saimyoji, will continue to provide inspiration and learning to many people as a bridge connecting the past and the present. It will be a valuable destination for history buffs, those interested in Buddhist culture, those seeking beautiful nature, and those seeking peace of mind.
