Complete Guide to Chokoji Temple (Kawamoto Town, Shimane Prefecture) | The History of the Tapir-Headed Jade Pillow and the Ogasawara Clan’s Family Temple
Located in Yutani, Kawamoto Town, Ochi District, Shimane Prefecture, Chokoji Temple is an ancient Soto Zen temple founded in the 14th century. Known as the family temple of the Ogasawara clan, who ruled the Iwami region, it houses the rare treasure, the “Tapir-Headed Jade Pillow,” said to have been bestowed upon it by the Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate. This article comprehensively introduces information you should know before visiting Chokoji Temple, including its history, cultural assets, highlights, and access methods.
History and Origin of Chokoji Temple
Background of its Founding and Relationship with the Iwami Ogasawara Clan
Chokoji Temple is a Soto Zen temple founded in the 14th century and has deep ties to the Ogasawara clan, a powerful local lord of Iwami Province. The Kawamoto area was ruled by the Ogasawara clan from the medieval period to the Sengoku period, and Chōkōji Temple has served as their family temple, enshrining the spirits of successive generations of the Ogasawara clan.
The Ogasawara clan was a prominent family based in Shinano Province, and a branch of the clan established its power in the Iwami region. In particular, Ogasawara Nagataka, the 12th head of the clan, is known for playing a crucial role during the turbulent Sengoku period.
The Relationship Between Ogasawara Nagataka and Ashikaga Yoshitane
One of the most important events in the history of Chōkōji Temple is the relationship between Ogasawara Nagataka and Ashikaga Yoshitane, the 12th Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate.
In 1508, when Ōuchi Yoshioki began his campaign to march on Kyoto, Ogasawara Nagataka accompanied him and achieved numerous military successes. For this achievement, Ashikaga Yoshitane, who had returned to the position of Shogun, bestowed upon him the rank of Junior Fifth Rank, Lower Grade, and the title of Governor of Kazusa Province, and it is said that he also received the precious treasure, the “Baku-headed Jade Pillow.”
This event is important evidence that the Ogasawara clan, a local lord family, had strong ties to the central government.
The Temple Treasure of Chōkōji Temple: The “Baku-headed Jade Pillow”
What is the Baku-headed Jade Pillow?
The “Baku-headed Jade Pillow” is the greatest attraction of Chōkōji Temple and is carefully preserved as a temple treasure. It is a wooden pillow, and it is said that a real baku’s bone is encased inside.
The baku is a mythical creature from Chinese legend, believed to have the power to devour bad dreams. This belief spread to Japan, and baku designs and images have been cherished as amulets for warding off evil and ensuring peaceful sleep.
The Legend and Belief of the Jade Pillow
The “Baku-headed Jade Pillow” has a legend associated with it: “Sleeping on this pillow devours nightmares and brings good dreams.” It is said to eat bad dreams and grant good ones, and has attracted the faith of many people since ancient times.
This jade pillow, said to have been bestowed by Ashikaga Yoshitane upon Ogasawara Nagataka, is carefully preserved at Chōkōji Temple not only as a work of art but also as a symbolic treasure demonstrating the trust and achievements of the shogun.
Cultural Value of the Jade Pillow
In addition to its unusual form as a carved wooden pillow, the legend that it contains the bones of a real baku (mythical creature that has passed through the Edo period), and its history as a gift from the Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate, this jade pillow possesses extremely high historical and cultural value.
It is a temple treasure that attracts attention from researchers as a valuable document illustrating the power structure and beliefs of the medieval period, and as a concrete relic of baku worship.
Chōkōji Temple Grounds and Highlights
Main Hall and Temple Layout
Chōkōji Temple’s grounds have a typical temple layout for a Sōtō Zen temple. The main hall is at the center, surrounded by the temple’s living quarters and cemetery, creating a tranquil atmosphere.
The main hall houses the principal image of worship, as well as the memorial tablets of successive generations of the Ogasawara clan. The wooden architecture exudes a sense of historical weight, allowing visitors to feel the passage of time since the Middle Ages.
The Giant Ginkgo Tree and Golden Carpet in Autumn
Chōkōji Temple’s grounds are home to a magnificent ginkgo tree, which displays stunning autumn foliage (yellow leaves). The best time to see it is usually around early November, and the sight of the entire grounds covered in a golden carpet is breathtaking.
The sight of the ginkgo leaves piled up on the ground is truly a work of art created by nature, making it a popular spot for many worshippers and photography enthusiasts. When visiting Kawamoto Town in autumn, be sure to admire the ginkgo trees at Chōkōji Temple.
Proximity to Yutani Onsen
Chōkōji Temple is located in the Yutani Onsen hot spring resort area, just a one-minute walk from the hot spring inn “Misen-sō.” Its convenient location, allowing visitors to combine a hot spring trip with a temple visit, is a major draw for tourists.
Yutani Onsen is a quiet mountain hot spring resort, perfect for a relaxing getaway. A trip that includes relaxing in the hot springs and then visiting Chōkōji Temple to experience its history and culture offers a truly enriching experience of Shimane Prefecture.
How to Access Chōkōji Temple
Basic Information
Location
783 Yutani, Kawamoto-cho, Ōchi-gun, Shimane Prefecture 696-1222
Sect
Sōtō Zen
Nearest Station
JR Sankō Line “Iwami-Kawamoto” Station (Note: The JR Sankō Line was discontinued in 2018)
Access by Public Transportation
After the discontinuation of the JR Sankō Line, access by public transportation is limited, but the following methods are available:
By Bus
- Nearest bus stop: “Iwami-Mitani”
- Approximately 3 minutes on foot from the bus stop
There are bus routes to Kawamoto-cho from Hiroshima and Hamada, but the number of buses is limited, so it is recommended to check the timetable in advance.
Access by Car
Access by car is the most convenient.
Travel Time from Major Interchanges
- Approximately 40 minutes from Mizuho IC on the Hamada Expressway
- Also accessible from Miyoshi IC on the Chugoku Expressway
Car Navigation Settings
- Address: 783 Yutani, Kawamoto-cho, Ochi-gun, Shimane Prefecture
- Landmark: Yutani Onsen “Misen-so” (1 minute walk)
There is some parking space around the temple grounds, but it is recommended to check in advance for details.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
When visiting Chōkōji Temple, it is recommended to also visit other tourist attractions in Kawamoto-cho and Ochi-gun.
Yutani Onsen
Located very close to Chōkōji Temple. A quiet mountain hot spring where day trips are possible.
Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine
The Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, a World Heritage Site, is about an hour’s drive from Kawamoto-cho.
Gonokawa River
The scenery along the Gonokawa River, the largest river in the Chugoku region, is beautiful, and you can enjoy nature in all four seasons.
Points to Note and Manners When Visiting
Visiting Hours and Viewing Hours
Chōkōji Temple is a temple that still conducts religious activities. While visiting is generally free, it is recommended to contact the temple in advance if you wish to view the interior of the main hall or the temple treasure, “Baku-to no Tamamakura” (a mythical creature with a baku’s head).
Photography
Photography within the temple grounds is generally permitted, but there may be restrictions on photographing the interior of the main hall or Buddhist statues. It is good manners to check before taking pictures or to act discreetly.
Many people visit to photograph the ginkgo trees in autumn, but please be considerate of other visitors.
Clothing and Belongings
Please dress appropriately for visiting a temple. Especially in summer, insect repellent is recommended, and in winter, warm clothing is essential.
Historical Background of Chōkōji Temple and Kawamoto Town
Geographical Importance of Iwami Province and Kawamoto
Kawamoto Town is located in the central part of Iwami Province and was a transportation hub utilizing the water transport of the Gono River. In the Middle Ages, this region was an important economic and military hub connecting the inland and coastal areas.
The Ogasawara clan, who ruled this land, expanded their power by leveraging its geographical advantages, and during the Sengoku period, they established control over the region by building relationships with powerful daimyo such as the Ouchi clan.
Soto Zen Buddhism and Local Communities
The Soto Zen sect is a branch of Zen Buddhism introduced to Japan by Zen Master Dogen during the Kamakura period. It is a practical form of Buddhism that emphasizes “shikantaza” (just sitting), and was widely accepted by the samurai class and commoners alike.
Chojoji Temple, as a Soto Zen temple, attracted the faith of the samurai class, including the Ogasawara clan, and also served as a spiritual pillar for the local residents. It is believed to have held an important position not only as a family temple but also as a center of education and culture.
Transition from the Middle Ages to the Early Modern Period
With the end of the Sengoku period, the power of the Ogasawara clan declined, but Chojoji Temple continued to exist as a family temple and a local temple. During the Edo period, while Iwami Province was divided and governed by the shogunate and various feudal domains, Chōkōji Temple continued to function as the center of local faith.
Having weathered the wave of anti-Buddhist movement after the Meiji Restoration, Chōkōji Temple has preserved its religious traditions to this day, embodying the very history of Kawamoto Town.
Significance of Visiting Chōkōji Temple
A Place to Experience Historical Romance
Visiting Chōkōji Temple holds more meaning than mere sightseeing. It is a place where you can experience multi-layered historical romance, including the relationship between the Muromachi Shogunate shoguns and local feudal lords, the nature of faith in the Middle Ages, and the history of the region.
Through the concrete artifact of the “Baku-headed Jade Pillow,” one can reflect on the faith and wishes of people from over 500 years ago, a valuable experience for history enthusiasts.
A Spiritual Experience in Tranquility and Nature
Located in the quiet mountains of Yutani Onsen, Chōkōji Temple is a tranquil space far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. Walking through the temple grounds and offering prayers allows you to find spiritual peace, a respite from everyday life.
Especially during the autumn ginkgo season, you can experience a soul-cleansing landscape where the beauty of nature and the solemnity of the temple harmonize.
Deepening Understanding of Local Culture
Visiting Chōkōji Temple is an entry point to understanding the culture and history of Kawamoto Town, Ōchi District, Shimane Prefecture. By learning about the history, culture, and activities of the people in this mountainous region, you can rediscover the diversity and depth of Japan.
Summary: Recommendation for Visiting Chōkōji Temple
Chōkōji Temple in Kawamoto Town, Shimane Prefecture, is a temple with many attractions, including the rare temple treasure “Baku-headed Jade Pillow,” its historical value as the family temple of the Iwami Ogasawara clan, and the beauty of its large ginkgo tree in autumn.
While access by public transport is somewhat inconvenient, combining it with a visit to Yutani Onsen allows you to enjoy both hot springs and historical exploration simultaneously. Especially during the autumn foliage season, a golden carpet of leaves welcomes visitors.
For those who want to experience Shimane Prefecture’s rich history and culture, those seeking a peaceful environment to calm their minds, and those interested in the romance of medieval history, Chōkōji Temple is a place well worth visiting.
If you have the opportunity to visit Kawamoto Town, be sure to stop by Chōkōji Temple and spend some time relaxing in a space where over 500 years of history breathes.
