About Chion-in Temple
Chion-in Temple is the head temple of the Jodo sect, located in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City. Its official name is “Kachozan Chionkyoin Otani-ji.” Built on the site where Honen Shonin, the founder of the Jodo sect, spent the latter half of his life and passed away, it is known as a sacred site, standing at the pinnacle of approximately 7,000 Jodo sect temples nationwide.
Its magnificent temple complex, national treasure architecture, and mysterious legends known as the “Seven Wonders” continue to fascinate visitors.
History and Origins
Deep Connection to Honen Shonin
The history of Chion-in Temple begins with Honen Shonin (1133-1212), the founder of the Jodo sect. In 1175, at the age of 43, Honen established the teaching of exclusive recitation of the Buddha’s name, proclaiming that anyone could attain rebirth in paradise by chanting “Namu Amida Butsu.”
In 1211 (Kenryaku 1), Honen returned to Kyoto from exile in Sanuki Province (present-day Kagawa Prefecture) and built a hermitage in Yoshimizu, Higashiyama (the current site of Chion-in Temple). The following January, he passed away at the age of 80. His disciples, in remembrance of their master’s virtues, built a mausoleum on this site, which is the origin of Chion-in Temple.
The Protection of the Tokugawa Family and the Formation of the Grand Temple Complex
Chion-in Temple became the magnificent temple it is today thanks to the protection of the Tokugawa family during the Edo period. Because Tokugawa Ieyasu’s mother, Oda-no-kata, was a devout follower of the Jodo sect, the Tokugawa family granted special protection to Chion-in.
In 1608 (Keicho 13), Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the expansion of Chion-in’s grounds and the large-scale development of the temple complex. In 1621 (Genna 7), the second shogun, Hidetada, built the current main gate. Between 1633 and 1641, the third shogun, Iemitsu, constructed the main buildings, including the Miei-do Hall.
This major construction transformed Chion-in Temple into a magnificent temple, sometimes called “Kyoto’s Castle,” showcasing the power and prestige of the Tokugawa family.
Main Highlights
National Treasure: Sanmon Gate
The Sanmon Gate, a symbol of Chion-in Temple, is one of Japan’s largest wooden double gates, standing 24 meters high and 50 meters wide. Built in 1621 by order of Tokugawa Hidetada, it is designated a National Treasure.
The upper floor houses statues of the Shakyamuni Triad and the Sixteen Arhats, while the ceiling and pillars are adorned with vividly colored paintings of celestial beings and flying dragons by Kano school artists. While normally closed to the public, during special openings, visitors can ascend to the upper floor and enjoy panoramic views of Kyoto city.
When passing through the Sanmon Gate, be sure to admire its overwhelming scale and intricate wooden construction.
National Treasure: Mieido Hall
The Mieido Hall is the central building of Chion-in Temple, housing the portrait of Honen Shonin. Built in 1639, it boasts a magnificent size of 44 meters wide, 34 meters deep, and 29 meters high, and is designated a National Treasure.
Inside, a portrait of Honen Shonin at the age of 75 is enshrined, and daily memorial services are held there. A major restoration was carried out from 2011 to 2020, restoring its majestic appearance from the time of its construction.
The vast inner sanctuary, covered with tatami mats, can accommodate approximately 3,000 people, reflecting its status as the head temple of the Jodo sect.
Hojo Garden
The garden in front of the Hojo is a representative example of a pond-centered strolling garden from the early Edo period. Centered around a man-made hill called Mount Fudaraku, the garden features ponds, waterfalls, and stone arrangements, showcasing its beauty throughout the seasons.
It is especially beautiful during the cherry blossom season in spring and the autumn foliage season. The view from inside the Hojo (abbot’s quarters) can be enjoyed as a framed garden, allowing one to reflect on the teachings of Honen Shonin in tranquility.
Assembly Hall (Great and Small Hojo)
The Assembly Hall consists of the Great and Small Hojo and is adorned with screen paintings by the Kano school. You can admire masterpieces by Edo period painters, such as the “Crane Room” and “Chrysanthemum Room” in the Great Hojo, and the “Group of Tigers” in the Small Hojo.
The “Group of Tigers” screen painting in the Small Hojo is particularly striking, as it is said to have been painted by an artist who had never seen a tiger, resulting in tigers with somewhat humorous expressions.
The Seven Mysteries of Chion-in Temple
Chion-in Temple has seven mysterious legends known as the “Seven Mysteries.”
1. The Nightingale Floor Corridor
The approximately 550-meter-long corridor leading from the Mikage-do Hall to the Ohojo and Kohojo halls makes a sound like a nightingale’s song when walked upon. This is due to the friction between the floorboards and nails, and is believed to have served as an alarm system to warn of intruders.
2. The Unpainted Wooden Coffin
The unpainted wooden coffin placed on the upper level of the Sanmon Gate is said to contain the remains of Gomi Kin’emon and his wife, the master carpenter who built the Sanmon Gate. Legend says it was placed there to mourn the couple who committed suicide to take responsibility for exceeding the construction budget.
3. The Forgotten Umbrella
Under the eaves in front of the Mikage-do Hall, only the handle of an umbrella is visible. There are various theories about its origin, including that it was placed there by Hidari Jingoro as a charm against evil, or that it was placed there to clear the name of a craftsman who was falsely accused.
4. The Escaped Sparrows
The fusuma (sliding door) paintings by Kano Nobumasa in the Chrysanthemum Room of the Ohojo (main hall) depicted numerous sparrows. Legend says they were so lifelike that they escaped every night. Currently, the fusuma paintings remain without the sparrows.
5. The Cat Facing Three Sides
The cat paintings on the cedar doors in the corridor of the Ohojo appear to face forward from any angle. This work showcases the skill of the Kano school painters.
6. The Giant Ladle
A giant ladle, 2.5 meters long and weighing approximately 30 kilograms, hangs in the corridor of the Ohojo. It is said that Miyoshi Seikai Nyudo wielded it to inspire his soldiers during the Summer Siege of Osaka, symbolizing the wish to “save the large army.”
7. Uryu Stone
A large stone located halfway up the stone steps leading to the Kuromon (Black Gate). This stone is called “Uryu-ishi” (Melon-Growing Stone) because, according to legend, when Honen Shonin descended from Mount Hiei and built a hermitage here, a melon sprouted overnight.
Annual Events
Gyoki-dai-e (Memorial Service)
This is a memorial service for Honen Shonin, held annually from April 18th to 25th. It is the largest service of the Jodo sect, attracting monks and believers from all over Japan. Various services and events are held during this period, with a particularly grand service taking place on the 25th, the anniversary of Honen Shonin’s death.
New Year’s Eve Bell
The New Year’s Eve bell at Chion-in Temple is considered one of the “Three Great Temple Bells of Japan,” a massive bell weighing approximately 70 tons. The sight of 17 monks pulling the clapper while chanting “Eii, hitotsu!” and “Sore!” on New Year’s Eve is a familiar sight on television.
The unique ritual of striking the bell with one monk holding the main rope and sixteen monks holding the smaller ropes in unison is a tradition unique to Chion-in Temple.
Midnight Nembutsu in the Memorial Service
This is a nighttime Nembutsu service held during the Memorial Service in April to introduce the Nembutsu to younger generations. A modern Buddhist service, blending music and Nembutsu, takes place in the illuminated temple grounds.
Benefits and Faith
The principal deity of Chion-in Temple is Honen Shonin, and the fundamental teaching is the exclusive Nembutsu practice, which states that one can attain rebirth in paradise by chanting “Namu Amida Butsu.”
The main benefits include:
- Rebirth in the Pure Land: Rebirth in the Pure Land through chanting the Buddha’s name
- Protection from Evil: Protection from evil through the temple’s main gate and seven mysteries
- Family Safety: Protection from the temple’s patronage of the Tokugawa family
- Academic Success: Benefiting from the academic virtues of Honen Shonin
When visiting, you can connect with his teachings by offering prayers to Honen Shonin in the main hall and chanting “Namu Amida Butsu.”
Etiquette for Visiting a Temple
Basic Flow of Visiting a Temple
- Bow at the Main Gate: Bow towards the main gate before entering the temple grounds.
- Purify at the Water Basin: Purify your left hand, right hand, and mouth in that order.
- Pray at the Miei-do Hall: Join your hands in prayer to the principal image, Honen Shonin, and chant “Namu Amida Butsu.”
- Tour the Temple Grounds: Visit the Seven Wonders and the gardens.
- Bow upon Exit: Turn around and bow when leaving the main gate.
How to Chant the Nembutsu
In the Jodo sect, you chant “Namu Amida Butsu.” There is no set number of times, but it is important to chant with sincerity. Honen Shonin taught, “If you chant the Nembutsu with a single heart, you will surely be reborn in paradise.”
Visiting Information
Visiting Hours and Fees
- Visiting Hours: 9:00 AM – 4:30 PM (Last entry at 4:00 PM)
- Yuzen Garden & Hojo Garden: Adults 500 yen, Elementary & Junior High School Students 250 yen
- Sanmon Gate Tower: Open only during special openings (Spring & Autumn)
Visiting the Mikage-do Hall from the outer hall is free.
Estimated Time Required
A leisurely tour of the entire temple grounds takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours. If focusing on the Sanmon Gate, Mikage-do Hall, and Hojo Garden, approximately 1 hour is a good guideline.
Access
Access by Train
- Keihan Railway: Approximately 10 minutes on foot from Gion-Shijo Station
- Hankyu Railway: Approximately 15 minutes on foot from Kawaramachi Station
- Subway Tozai Line: Approximately 8 minutes on foot from Higashiyama Station
Access by Bus
- City Bus: Immediately after alighting at Chion-in-mae bus stop, or approximately 5 minutes on foot from Higashiyama-Sanjo bus stop
- Main Routes: Routes 206, 31, 46, 80, etc.
Access by Car
Approximately 20 minutes from Meishin Expressway Kyoto East Interchange. However, there is no parking available for general visitors on the temple grounds. We recommend using nearby paid parking lots or public transportation.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
Chion-in Temple is located in the heart of the Higashiyama area, and there are many tourist attractions nearby:
- Maruyama Park: A representative Kyoto park adjacent to the south side of Chion-in Temple
- Yasaka Shrine: Approximately 5 minutes on foot, an ancient shrine famous for the Gion Festival
- Shoren-in Temple: Approximately 5 minutes on foot, a Tendai sect temple headed by a member of the imperial family
- Gion: Approximately 10 minutes on foot, Kyoto’s geisha district
- Kodai-ji Temple: Approximately 15 minutes on foot, a temple associated with Nene, the principal wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi
It is an ideal starting point for exploring Higashiyama.
Summary
Chion-in Temple is a renowned temple with over 800 years of history, serving as the head temple of the Jodo sect, which continues to transmit the teachings of Honen Shonin. Its national treasures, the Sanmon Gate and Mikage-do Hall, the mysteries of its seven wonders, and the teaching of salvation accessible to all, “Namu Amida Butsu,” continue to fascinate many people.
The magnificent temple complex not only demonstrates the authority of the Tokugawa family but also embodies Honen Shonin’s teaching of equality and “salvation for all.” When you visit Kyoto, be sure to stop by Chion-in Temple, listen to the sounds of the Nembutsu chanting, and offer your prayers in tranquility.
