Complete Guide to Kamigoryo Shrine | The History and Highlights of an Ancient Shrine Dedicated to Appeasing Vengeful Spirits Protecting Heian-kyo
Kamigoryo Shrine, located in Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City, is a venerable shrine that has walked hand in hand with the history of Heian-kyo. Its official name is “Goryo Shrine,” and it is known as a representative shrine of Japanese Goryo faith, founded in the early Heian period to appease the vengeful spirits of those who met unfortunate deaths.
This article comprehensively explains everything you need to know before visiting, from the history of Kamigoryo Shrine from its founding to the present day, the deities enshrined there, the highlights of the grounds, annual events, and even how to access it.
What is Kamigoryo Shrine?
Kamigoryo Shrine is a shrine located in Kamigoryo-Tatemachi, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City, and its former shrine rank was Prefectural Shrine. The name “Kamigoryo Shrine” corresponds to Shimogoryo Shrine, and its current official name as a religious corporation is “Goryo Shrine.” Also known as the “Shrine of Calming the Heart,” it has been revered by the people of Kyoto for over 1200 years as a guardian deity of Heian-kyo (Kyoto) and a central shrine of Goryo faith, which seeks to appease vengeful spirits.
What is Goryo Faith?
Goryo faith is a uniquely Japanese belief that the vengeful spirits (Goryo) of people who met unfortunate deaths due to political struggles and conspiracies bring about epidemics and disasters. These spirits are enshrined as gods to appease them, and are even worshipped as guardian deities. This belief spread in the early Heian period due to a series of epidemics and natural disasters.
Kami-Goryo Shrine is considered the birthplace of Goryo faith and occupies an important position in the history of Japanese religion.
History of Kamigoryo Shrine
Founding and the Enryaku Era
The founding of Kamigoryo Shrine is deeply connected to Emperor Kanmu’s relocation of the capital to Heian-kyo in 794 AD (Enryaku 13). According to shrine records, it began when Emperor Kanmu, at his request, enshrined the spirit of Emperor Sudo (Prince Sawara) at the present site.
Prince Sawara was Emperor Kanmu’s younger brother, but while on his way to exile in Awaji Province for his alleged involvement in the assassination of Fujiwara no Tanetsugu, he protested his innocence, starved himself to death, and died of anger. Afterward, Emperor Kanmu’s mother, empress, and crown prince all died of illness, and an epidemic broke out. These ominous events were attributed to the vengeful spirit of Prince Sawara, and he was enshrined as a deity to appease his spirit.
The Jōgan Era and the Beginning of the Goryō-e Ceremony
In the 5th year of the Jōgan era (863), the first “Goryō-e” ceremony was held at Shinsen-en Garden. This was a ritual to appease the spirits of six individuals, including Prince Sawara, in order to quell an epidemic. This Goryō-e ceremony greatly contributed to the establishment and development of Goryō faith at Kami-Goryō Shrine.
From this period onward, Kami-Goryō Shrine developed into a shrine that enshrined not only Prince Sawara, but also several spirits who met unfortunate deaths due to political conflicts.
Establishment of the Eight Deities in the Main Hall
Throughout the Heian period, eight deities came to be enshrined at Kami-Goryō Shrine. These are known as the “Eight Deities of the Main Shrine,” and include the following gods:
- Emperor Sudō (Prince Sawara) – Younger brother of Emperor Kanmu
- Princess Inoue – Empress of Emperor Kōnin
- Prince Osabe – Son of Princess Inoue
- Fujiwara no Ōfujin (Fujiwara no Yoshiko) – Daughter of Fujiwara no Nakamaro
- Tachibana no Taifu (Tachibana no Hayanari) – Calligrapher and Councilor
- Bun’ya no Miyatamaro (Fumiya no Miyatamaro) – Councilor
- Honoikazuchi no Kami (Kibi no Makibi) – Scholar and politician
- Kibi no Seirei (Spirit of Kibi no Makibi) – The fierce spirit of Kibi no Makibi
These deities are all figures who were caught up in political intrigues and power struggles from the Nara period to the early Heian period, and met unfortunate deaths.
Development from the Medieval Period Onward
During the Ōnin War (1467-1477), the grounds of Kami-Goryo Shrine became the starting point of the fighting. The shrine buildings were destroyed in the conflict, but were later rebuilt and restored through donations and reverence from successive emperors, including Emperor Reigen, as well as court nobles and samurai.
During the Edo period, under the special reverence of Emperor Reigen, the shrine buildings underwent repair and maintenance. Many of the buildings seen today were constructed through donations made during this period.
Changes from the Meiji Period Onward
In the Meiji era, at the request of Emperor Meiji, five more deities were enshrined. This brought the total number of deities at Kami-Goryo Shrine to thirteen, a number that remains to this day.
Under the Meiji-era shrine ranking system, it was designated a prefectural shrine, positioning it as an important local shrine. Even after the implementation of the Religious Corporations Law following World War II, it continues to attract worshippers as the local tutelary deity and a center of Goryō faith.
About the Deities
Kami-Goryo Shrine currently enshrines thirteen deities. These are broadly classified into eight deities in the main hall and five deities added during the Meiji period.
Details of the Eight Deities in the Main Hall
Emperor Sudo (Prince Sawara) is arguably the principal deity of Kami-Goryo Shrine. Born as the younger brother of Emperor Kanmu by the same mother, he was appointed Crown Prince, but was deposed for his involvement in the assassination of Fujiwara no Tanetsugu and died in exile in Awaji Province. After his death, his vengeful spirit was believed to have brought various calamities, and he was given the posthumous title of Emperor Sudo.
Princess Inoue was the daughter of Emperor Shomu and the Empress of Emperor Konin, but was deposed on suspicion of cursing the emperor. She and her son, Prince Osabe, were imprisoned and met a tragic end. Both mother and son are enshrined as spirits.
Tachibana no Hayanari was a calligrapher known as one of the “Three Great Calligraphers” along with Kukai and Emperor Saga, but he died of illness on his way to exile in Izu Province after being implicated in the Jōwa Incident. Due to his calligraphic talent and unfortunate end, he came to be revered as a spirit.
Kibi no Makibi traveled to Tang China as an envoy, and after returning to Japan, he was active as a scholar and politician, but became embroiled in political conflicts with the Fujiwara clan. In his case, he is enshrined as two separate deities, “Honoikazuchi-no-Kami” and “Kibi no Seirei,” which is thought to represent the separate worship of his gentle spirit and fierce spirit.
Additional Deities Enshrined During the Meiji Period
The five deities enshrined at the request of Emperor Meiji include the following spirits:
- Ono no Takamura
- Fujiwara no Hirotsugu
- Tachibana no Hayanari (Additional Deity)
- Fumiya no Miyatamaro (Additional Deity)
- Other Deities
These deities are all historical figures who received unfavorable treatment for political reasons.
Highlights of the Shrine Grounds
The grounds of Kami-Goryo Shrine are dotted with historical buildings and spots where you can enjoy the beauty of nature throughout the seasons.
Main Hall
The main hall was rebuilt after the Onin War and preserves the architectural style of the Edo period. The shrine building, which was maintained through a donation from Emperor Reigen, is simple yet dignified and has been carefully preserved as a central sacred site of Goryo worship.
The main shrine enshrines thirteen divine spirits, allowing worshippers to quiet their minds and offer prayers. As its alternative name, “Shrine of Calming the Heart,” suggests, the shrine grounds are enveloped in a serene atmosphere.
Worship Hall and Gate Tower
Upon entering the shrine grounds, the first thing that catches the eye is the magnificent gate tower. This gate tower, also an Edo period structure, is an important building that demonstrates the status of Kamigoryo Shrine. Passing through the gate tower, the worship hall comes into view.
The worship hall is where worshippers offer their prayers, and various Shinto rituals are performed here during festivals such as the Goryo Festival.
Monument Marking the Birthplace of the Ōnin War
Within the shrine grounds stands a stone monument marking the “Birthplace of the Ōnin War.” In 1467, the clash between the armies of Hatakeyama Masanaga and Hatakeyama Yoshinari in the forest of this Kamigoryo Shrine marked the beginning of the 11-year Ōnin War.
This stone monument is a valuable historical site that commemorates an event that marked a significant turning point in Japanese history. It’s a must-see spot for history buffs.
Shrine Grounds
Several smaller shrines are enshrined around the main hall. Each of these small shrines has its own history and is revered by the local people.
Besides common shrines such as Inari shrines and Tenmangu shrines, there are also shrines based on the unique beliefs of Kamigoryo Shrine, adding to the enjoyment of exploring the grounds.
Sacred Trees and Garden
Several sacred trees, some hundreds of years old, stand within the grounds, creating a sacred atmosphere. The camphor trees in particular are magnificent, their massive trunks telling the story of Kamigoryo Shrine’s long history.
Furthermore, there is a small but charming garden within the grounds, where seasonal flowers and trees delight visitors. From cherry blossoms in spring, to fresh greenery in early summer, and autumn leaves in fall, the grounds show different faces with each season, offering new discoveries with every visit.
Shrine Office and Offerings
At the shrine office, you can receive offerings such as Goshuin (shrine stamps), amulets, and ema (votive tablets). The Goshuin of Kamigoryo Shrine is written in a simple yet powerful style, making it a popular memento of your visit.
There are various types of amulets, including those for warding off evil, fulfilling wishes, and academic success. The “Peace of Mind Amulet,” based on the Goryo faith, is especially recommended for those seeking inner peace.
Festivals and Annual Events
Kamigoryo Shrine holds various festivals throughout the year. Among them, the Goryo Festival is known as an important festival that colors the early summer in Kyoto.
Goryo Festival
The Goryo Festival is the annual festival of Kamigoryo Shrine, held every year on May 18th. This festival has a history of over 1000 years, originating from the Goryo-e (a ritual for appeasing vengeful spirits) held at Shinsen-en in 863 AD.
On the day of the festival, the portable shrine procession takes place, parading through the parish area. A unique spear called a “kenboko” also parades through the area, its magnificent appearance captivating many spectators. The kenboko is believed to ward off disease and disaster, and is a ritual object deeply connected to the belief in vengeful spirits.
While the Goryo Festival is not counted among Kyoto’s three major festivals (Aoi Festival, Gion Festival, and Jidai Festival), it is a beloved and important festival that heralds the arrival of early summer in Kyoto.
Saitansai (New Year’s Day Festival)
Held on January 1st, the Saitansai is a festival to express gratitude to the gods for the new year and pray for peace throughout the year. Many visitors come for their first shrine visit of the year, praying for happiness in the new year.
The Saitansai at Kamigoryo Shrine is held in a solemn atmosphere, allowing worshippers to start the year with renewed spirits.
Setsubun Festival
On February 3rd (or 4th), the Setsubun Festival is held. Beans are scattered, and with the chant of “Good fortune in, demons out!”, evil spirits are driven away and good fortune is invited in.
At the Setsubun Festival of Kamigoryo Shrine, local children also participate, and the traditional event is passed down in a lively atmosphere.
Kigensai Festival
On February 11th, National Foundation Day, the Kigensai Festival is held. This is a festival celebrating the enthronement of Emperor Jimmu and praying for the development of the nation.
The Kigensai Festival is a festival of national significance and is conducted with solemnity.
Other Festivals
In addition to the above, various festivals are held throughout the year, including the Spring Grand Festival, Autumn Grand Festival, and Monthly Festivals. These festivals serve to offer gratitude and prayers to the gods, and also deepen the bonds of the local community. ## Access and Visiting Information
Location
Address: 495 Kamigoryo-Tatemachi, Karasuma-Higashi-iru, Kamigoryomae-dori, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture 602-0896
Phone Number: 075-441-2260
Transportation Access
Access by Train
- Approximately 3 minutes on foot from Kuramaguchi Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Karasuma Line (nearest station)
- Approximately 15 minutes on foot from Imadegawa Station on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Karasuma Line
Access by Bus
- Approximately 5 minutes on foot from Karasuma Kuramaguchi bus stop (Kyoto City Bus)
- Approximately 3 minutes on foot from Kamigoryomae bus stop (Kyoto City Bus)
Access by Car
- Approximately 30 minutes from Kyoto Minami IC on the Meishin Expressway
- Parking: Several parking spaces available on the temple grounds (for visitors)
Visiting Hours and Admission Fee
Visiting Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Free entry to the grounds)
Admission Fee: Free entry to the grounds
Shrine Office Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Visiting Etiquette
When visiting Kamigoryo Shrine, please observe the following etiquette:
- Bow before passing through the torii gate: Bow before entering the grounds.
- Purify at the water basin: Purify your hands and mouth at the water basin before praying.
- Two bows, two claps, one bow: Bow twice, clap twice, and finally bow once in front of the main hall.
- Be quiet: As this is a “shrine of tranquility,” pray quietly.
- Photography: Photography is permitted on the grounds, but please be considerate of other visitors.
Nearby Tourist Attractions
There are many other tourist attractions around Kamigoryo Shrine.
Shokokuji Temple
Located about a 10-minute walk from Kamigoryo Shrine, this is the head temple of the Shokokuji branch of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. Known as the head temple of Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji temples, its vast grounds contain numerous cultural treasures.
Kyoto Gyoen National Garden
Located about a 15-minute walk south from Kamigoryo Shrine, this vast park surrounds the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It’s a popular place for relaxation, where visitors can enjoy the changing seasons, and is beloved by both locals and tourists.
Shimogoryo Shrine
Shimogoryo Shrine, the counterpart to Kamigoryo Shrine, is located in Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto City. This shrine is also based on the Goryo faith, and visiting both is recommended.
Kyoto Prefectural Botanical Garden
Located about a 15-minute walk north from Kamigoryo Shrine, this is Japan’s oldest public botanical garden, where you can enjoy plants throughout the seasons.
The Charm of Kamigoryo Shrine
The greatest charm of Kamigoryo Shrine lies in its historical significance and its unique belief in “calming the mind.” Founded at the pivotal moment in Japanese history—the relocation of the capital to Heian-kyo—its existence is extremely valuable as a shrine embodying the uniquely Japanese religious view of Goryo faith.
While the grounds are not vast, they are enveloped in a tranquil atmosphere, allowing visitors to forget the hustle and bustle of the city and find peace of mind. Walking through the grounds, lined with sacred trees hundreds of years old, one can feel the weight of over 1200 years of history.
Furthermore, it is a historical site as the birthplace of the Onin War, making it a special place for Japanese history enthusiasts.
The festivals, including the Goryo Festival, are valuable cultural heritage that convey ancient beliefs and traditions to the present day. Participating in these festivals allows for a deeper understanding of Kyoto’s history and culture.
Summary
Kamigoryo Shrine boasts a history of over 1200 years as a central shrine of Goryo faith, which began with the relocation of the capital to Heian-kyo. Founded by the imperial decree of Emperor Kanmu, this shrine, which has appeased the spirits of those who met unfortunate deaths, including Prince Sawara, continues to attract many worshippers as a “shrine of peace of mind.”
The eight deities enshrined in the main hall—Emperor Sudo, Princess Inoue, Kibi no Makibi, Tachibana no Hayanari, and others—are all important figures in Japanese history, and their stories are essentially the history of Japan itself. Within the shrine grounds, there is also a stone monument marking the birthplace of the Onin War, allowing visitors to feel the significance of a turning point in history firsthand.
The Goryo Festival in May is a traditional festival that has continued for over 1000 years, featuring unique rituals such as a procession of sword-bearing floats. Various festivals are held throughout the year, including the New Year’s Festival, Setsubun Festival, and Kigen Festival, fulfilling its role as a center of local faith.
Access is convenient, just a 3-minute walk from Kuramaguchi Subway Station, and admission to the shrine grounds is free. When sightseeing in Kyoto, be sure to visit Kamigoryo Shrine and find peace in its tranquil atmosphere, experiencing the depths of Japanese history and faith.
Kamigoryo Shrine is a special shrine that, while a little removed from the hustle and bustle of Kyoto, allows you to touch the very heart of Japanese history and culture.
